The Herbarie at Stoney Hill Farm, Inc. - Printable Product List - Conditioners, Thickeners, & Structural Agents
||Argan oil is a clear, amber colored oil produced from the kernels of the Argan Tree. Argan Oil is valued for its use in cosmetics and toiletries. Argan Oil has demonstrated antiaging characteristics and can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This nourishing oil can improve skin elasticity and overall vitality. Argan Oil is light and easily absorbed and will leave skin soft and supple and moisturized. Argan Oil contains 80% unsaturated fatty acids and is exceptionally rich in natural tocopherols, phenols, phenolic acid and carotenes. This natural oil is recommended for use in both skin care and hair care. Applications include creams, lotions, serums, conditioners, and massage oils. The recommended usage rate is 1%-5% by weight of the formulation. Argan Oil is extracted using traditional cold press technique. Shelf-life should be approximately one to two years if stored away from light and heat (15C/59F – 25C/77F).
||This highly desirable, long chain fatty alcohol is used to thicken and stabilize formulations. It can also serve as a co-emulsifier in some formulations. It will produce elegant emulsions and impart a soft, velvety feel to the skin. It can be used in water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and anhydrous formulations-----cream, lotion, ointment, body butter, salt scrubs.
||BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier
||BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier is an excellent cationic self-emulsifier and conditioner for both hair and skin care. It is naturally derived from Colza oil and is noted for its exceptional mildness. BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier offers innovative properties to formulations as both a mild primary emulsifier and an excellent conditioning agent. Creams and lotions made with BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier leave a soft, powdery feel on the skin. Because BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier is substantive to hair, it imparts excellent body and spring and improves wet combing. Due to its extreme mildness, it is suitable for leave-in conditioners. BTMS can be used as sole emulsification system in creams, lotions or hair conditioners. BTMS can also emulsify many silicones (up to 50% in a formulation).
||BTMS-50 - Incroquat Behenyl TMS 50
||BTMS-50 (Incroquat Behenyl TMS 50) is effective as a detangler for hair, yet is safe and gentle enough for leave-on skin care. BTMS-Conditioning Emulsifier and BTMS-50 both produce mild and elegant cationic emulsions that are substantive to skin and hair. These emulsions provide a soft, powdery, persistent after-feel on the skin and leave hair silky smooth and tangle-free. BTMS-50 may yield lower viscosity emulsions when compared to our regular BTMS-Conditioning Emulsifier.
|| - Lovely Cera Bellina is a derivative of beeswax in which the free fatty acids have been converted to polyglycerol esters. By combining the benefits of beeswax and the special non-ionic emulsifier activity of the polyglycerol esters, Cera Bellina improves many types of cosmetic formulations. ●In anhydrous products Cera Bellina is capable of producing remarkably stable and smooth gels with natural oils and butters. ●With Cera Bellina, plant, and vegetable oils can be gelled with low percentages. ●In finished lipsticks, lipbalms, salves, balms, body butters, and deodorant sticks Cera Bellina suppresses fatty alcohol migration and oil synerisis (sweating). ●In color cosmetics Cera Bellina helps to break up pigment agglomerates and by forming a gel network it also maintains an even distribution of ingredients. ●In emulsions Cera Bellina functions as a stabilizer and thickener by inhibiting crystallization in the oil phase and by acting as a low HLB co-emulsifier. ●Cera Bellina offers thickening and stability with a silky smooth feel Cera Bellina is recommended for use in all anhydrous, stick products such as lipsticks and lipbalms. Cera Bellina is recommended for use in skin care balms, body butters, salves, lotion bars, and emulsions. Suggested Applications: ● Oil based skin care serums ● Balms and Body Butters ● Oil based skin care cleansers ● Products for Sensitive Skin ● After-sun skin care ● Lipbalm and lipstick ● Makeup Foundation INCI Name: Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax Recommend Usage: Lipbalms: 1.0% - 30.0% Gelled Oils: 1.0% - 5.0% Emulsions: 0.1% - 2.0% Physical Form: White Pastille Cera Bellina Luscious Lip Balm Cera Bellina – 30% Fractionated Coconut Oil – 30% Sunflower Seed Oil – 25% Extra Virgin Coconut Oil – 13.5% Vitapherole T50 – 1% Peppermint Essential Oil – 0.5% Total - 100% Combine first 5 ingredients in heat safe container and warm until melted. Add Flavor Oil and pour into sticks or containers. Let stand until firm. Silky Shea and Cera Bellina Lip Balm Cera Bellina – 20% Fractionated Coconut Oil – 45% Sunflower Wax Beads – 7.5% Shea Butter – 26% Vitapherole T50 – 1% Peppermint Essential Oil – 0.5% Total - 100%
||Cetyl Alcohol NF
||Cetyl Alcohol NF is naturally derived from coconut oil. This fatty alcohol is used to give emulsions more stability, body, viscosity. Cetyl Alcohol can also serve as a co-emulsifier in some formulations. Cetyl alcohol can enhance texture and feel of lotions, creams, and scrubs. This 95% cetyl alcohol offers higher purity. Biodegradable.
||Cetyl Esters can be used in water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and anhydrous formulations-----cream, lotion, ointment, body butter, salt scrubs. This emollient ester will impart a soft gloss and lubricous feel to formulations; and will also increase viscosity and provide stability.
|| EMT Polymer is multifunctional and simple to use! This polymer functions by swelling in water and is perfect for light, elegant cold-process creams, lotions, serums and other personal care products. EMT Polymer leaves skin feeling soft and conditioned. EMT Polymer can be added directly to water to form a gel-like, antiaging “skin care serum” – easy as 1, 2, 3 – no heating necessary and no neutralization needed. EMT Polymer can be used as the only emulsifier and thickener to make light, cold process lotions or creams – 1% - 2%. Please see our EMT Lotion. EMT Polymer can be added to the heated oil phase for hot process emulsions such as our EMT Cream. It can also be used with other emulsifiers to create stability and build viscosity – 0.5% - 2%. EMT Polymer is compatible with triglycerides, silicones, emollient esters, and fragrance and essential oils. EMT Polymer used at 2%-5% can emulsify up to 25% lipids. EMT Polymer offers excellent emulsification and stability for skin care serums, creams and lotions at a very low usage rate.
||Extra Virgin Olive Butter
||NEW Formula!! The Herbarie's Extra Virgin Olive Butter is a beautifully smooth and silky cosmetic butter made from cold-pressed, Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Olea europaea) and natural polyglycerol esters of beeswax. Our Extra Virgin Olive Oil is USDA NOP Certified Organic. This cold-pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a complex triglyceride containing fatty acids, such as oleic and linoleic acid, tocopherols, squalene, polyphenols, and natural pigments such as chlorophyll. The Herbarie's Extra Virgin Olive Butter provides moisturization, conditioning and nutrients for dry and cracked skin - leaving a non-greasy, soft and silky feel. Extra Virgin Olive Butter has fabulous spreadability on the skin, making it ideal as a massage butter or carrier for treatment products. The Herbarie's Extra Virgin Olive Butter can also be used as an ingredient in formulations. Extra Virgin Olive Butter is recommended to build viscosity and increase stability and emolliency in products such as balms, creams, lotions, and lipbalms.
||Extraordinary XG™ is a multifunctional natural polymer derived from Xanthan Gum. Extraordinary XG™ is a trademark of The Herbarie. This ingredient makes a clear gel product--instantly--with no neutralization required. Extraordinary XG™ can be used for leave-on skin care as a gel, serum, or as part of an emulsion. The skin-feel is smooth and soft. Extraordinary XG™ can also be used for hair care to provide outstanding, long-lasting hold under highly humid conditions, without the tack and flaking often associated with gels. We recommend this ingredient as a substitute for carbomer and PVP in hair styling formulas. Extraordinary XG™ is suitable for use in gels, serums, glazes, spray gels, mousses, creams/lotions, pomades and other styling aids. The recommended usage for this lightweight powder is 0.2% – 2.0%. Usage at 1% will provide a very thick gel. This xanthan gum derivative is truly extraordinary! Features/Benefits: •Naturally derived •Multi-functional: Fixative and thickener/suspending agent ••Ease of use: easily dispersed into room temperature water with no neutralization required •Quickly recovers viscosity following high shear •Good suspending ability •Soft, smooth feel •Superior feel without tackiness •Long lasting hold under high humidity (retains 95% curl retention after 24 hours at 70F) •Ease of detangling and combing (less mechanical damage) •Minimal flaking •Restylability Stability/Compatibility: •Soluble in water and ethanol (less than 30%). •Optimum formulation pH: 4.5 – 6.0. As pH decreases, gel clarity is reduced. •As pH increases slightly, gel clarity is improved. •Anionic – compatible with silicones, propylene glycol, glycerin, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, sodium phosphate, some cationic polymers, acrylate polymers, polyurethane polymers, PVP, native xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, fatty alcohols, nonionic emulsifiers. XG is not compatible with most surfactants and is not recommended as a thickener for shampoo/body wash. •Salt can adversely effect gel. •Paraben based preservatives may reduce viscosity. Liquid Germall Plus is the recommended preservative. •Homogenization can improve the gel texture and clarity. A homogenization speed of 300-600 rpm is recommended. •Good UV stability Formulation Guidelines: No heating required. No neutralization required. To make a gel, follow typical hydrocolloid dispersion procedures: While room temperature, deionized or distilled water is being stirred and is moving, slowly sprinkle powder into moving water. Particles must be sifted/separated to avoid conglomeration and “fish eyes”. Continue to stir as product thickens into a gel consistency. INCI Name: Dehydroxanthan Gum Recommended percentage: 0.5% - 2.0%. Physical Form: Free-flowing white powder Viscosity (1% solution): 30,000 Viscosity (2% solution): 50,000 pH 1% solution: 5
||A cationic derivative of a natural gum that is highly substantive to both hair and skin. GuarSilk™ is THE key ingredient in conditioning shampoos to leave hair soft, shiny and silky. GuarSilk™ is a trademark of The Herbarie. GuarSilk™ is quickly and easily dispersible in room temperature water and is compatible with anionic and amphoteric systems. In addition to its superior conditioning properties, GuarSilk™ has the benefit of increasing viscosity and stability in formulations. To give some idea of the amount needed: Two ounces GuarSilk™ will be enough for 50-60 8 ounce bottles of shampoo/body wash. Our 24 ounce size of GuarSilk™ will be enough for 400+ 8 oz. bottles of shampoo/body wash.
||Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC)
||NEW PRICING - Hydroxethyl Cellulose (HEC) is an excellent thickening agent for cosmetic and personal care formulations. This nonionic, water soluble polymer offers efficient and cost-effective options for making crystal clear gel products. There are different grades of HEC with varying formulation requirements. The Herbarie's Hydroxethyl Cellulose (HEC) is a free-flowing, extremely easy to use, granular powder that easily disperses into room temperature water without clumping or forming “fish-eyes”. We are currently the only distributor for this particular Hydroxyethcellose (HEC) product, therefore other HEC products will likely require different formulation technique and procedures. Hydroxethyl Cellulose (HEC) has an exceptional skin feel and is the perfect ingredient to make crystal clear serums for water soluble active ingredients. It can also be used to make crystal clear, water soluble hair styling gels. In addition, Hydroxethyl Cellulose (HEC) offers excellent functionality when used in the water phase of emulsions to build viscosity and stability. However, Hydroxethyl Cellulose (HEC) is not an emulsifier and will not emulsify oils into water. Formulation Guidelines: ● Disperse into room temperature water ● Heat to approximately 165-170F with mixing ● Once the dispersion begins to thicken, remove from heat. ● Cool down while continuing to stir until completely hydrated ● HEC solution can be used ‘as is’ for a crystal clear product ● No emulsifier needed for all water soluble ingredients INCI Name: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Recommended Percentages: For Building water phase Viscosity/Stability: 0.1%- 0.5% For high viscosity crystal clear gel: 1.0%-3.0% Physical Form: Off-White, free-flowing, light-weight, granular powder Solubility: Soluble in Water/Not soluble in Oils Viscosity: 4800-6000 cps
||Incroquat CR Concentrate
||Incroquat CR Concentrate is economical, easy to use, and produces good results. A simple cream rinse can be made by melting and dispersing the pastilles into hot water. For a more substantive hair conditioner, we recommend combining the CR Concentrate with BTMS-Conditioning Emulsifier.
||MaizeThix™ is a natural, cornstarch based thickener for shampoo, body wash, facial cleansers and other surfactant based systems. MaizeThix™ is works exceptionally well to build viscosity in difficult to thicken surfactant systems and out performs all other starch or cellulose gum thickeners. MaizeThix™ functions well in neutral to mildly acidic systems and is tolerant of low pH and salt. MaizeThix™ imparts a silky feel in rinse-off and will not compromise foam. MaizeThix™ is easy to disperse in room temperature water and will not develop "fish eyes". Formulating Guidelines: MaizeThix™ is easily dispersed into room temperature water. Gently stir until MaizeThix™ is completely incorporated and hydrated. When incorporated and hydrated (allow 15-20 minutes for hydrating) at the recommended percentages, MaizeThix™ will typically form a very, thick paste-like consistency. For cold-process formulas, the liquid surfactant should be directly added to the hydrated MaizeThix™ and gently stirred until incorporated. As additional ingredients are added to the formula, MaizeThix™ will loose its paste-like consistency and develop a lovely rheology and consistency. Reducing the pH of the finished shampoo may increase viscosity. Essential oils, fragrance oils and other ingredients may have an effect on the viscosity of the finished formula. MaizeThix™ can be used as the only thickener or in combination with other thickeners. When used as the only thickener in shampoo or body wash, we typically recommend using 5.0%-7.0%. MaizeThix™ is nonionic and is compatible with most other gums and starches such as GuarSilk™. MaizeThix™ and GuarSilk offer synergistic thickening and conditioning. We suggest 5.0% MaizeThix and 0.2% GuarSilk for a light, conditioning formula. Please see our formulary for sample formulas. INCI Name: Modified Cornstarch pH: 6.5-7.5 (6% in distilled water) Physical Form: White, coarse powder Solubility: Water Soluble Viscosity (5.0-8.0%): 35-40,000 cps Nonionic
|| New! Oliwax LC is a Liquid Crystal Promoter derived from Olive Oil fatty acids. Oliwax LC is designed to stabilize oil in water emulsions while enhancing the texture and feel in application. The unique “crystal network” is similar to human skin lipids and promotes excellent delivery to skin. Unlike many other waxy lipids, Oliwax LC offers stabilization with a light, silky-smooth feel. Oliwax LC is recommended for use in skin care creams and lotions, foundation, lipsticks and lipbalms, skin care serums, and sunscreens. Oliwax LC enriches the texture of the finished product without greasiness or tackiness and has no whitening effect on skin during application. Clinical tests have demonstrated that Oliwax LC is hypoallergenic and an excellent choice for sensitive skin. Oliwax LC has not been tested on animals, is completely biodegradable and compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. Oliwax LC is stable to oxidation, is odorless and colorless and offered in easy to use flake form. Suggested Applications: ● Daily Moisturizers ● Night Creams ● Eye Creams ● Products for Sensitive Skin ● After-sun Creams and Lotions ● Sun-care products ● Makeup Foundation INCI Name: Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Olivate Recommend Usage: 1.0% - 4.0% Physical Form: Cream Colored Flakes
||Polyquaternium 7 is an excellent cationic conditioner for hair and skin. It is especially useful in surfactant based systems such as shampoo and shower gel and is perfect for use in spray on, leave in hair conditioners. Polyquaternium 7 is a very good detangler and provides slip for easier wet-combing. In addition it will add softness and shine to dry hair.
||The Alginates are derived from brown algae (Phaeophycota). Sodium Alginate is a natural, water-soluble polysaccharide that produces a gel consistency when hydrated. Sodium Alginate has been used in the medical field, in the food industry, and more recently in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient.
||Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate
||Ecocert - Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate was originally used as a food grade emulsifier. Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate is now used as a multifunctional ingredient in personal care. Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate can be used as an emulsifying agent, humectant and conditioner in skin and hair care. Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate is vegetable derived and can be used in creams, lotions, facial cleansers, and bath products such as bath butters and scrubs. Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate can be used as a gellant in the manufacture of antiperspirants and deodorant sticks with Propylene Glycol, Alcohol or Silicone. Other suggested uses, such as in bar soaps, result in low irritation to skin and moisturization of skin.
||Fatty acid derived from natural sources used to thicken and stabilize formulations. Stearic Acid will impart a soft feel to lotions and creams. It can be used in water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and anhydrous formulations-----cream, lotion, ointment, body butter, salt scrubs.
||UltraMaize™ is a trademark of The Herbarie. This naturally derived, starch-based (maize) product offers a unique concept to create elegant and stable emulsions with a satiny feel! UltraMaize™ disperses in cold water within minutes. It is ideal as a co-emulsifier and viscosity builder for creams, lotions, shampoo, liquid soap, body wash and more! To enhance feel and thicken lotion or cream, simply add UltraMaize™ to the finished product. No heating required! To create a gel using water, infusions, distillates, extracts, etc., add 2%-7% UltraMaize™ and let stand for five minutes. Compatible with most ingredients and simple to use. Effective at wide range of temperatures and pH levels. Create your own stable emulsions from start to finish.
||VenaSilk™ is naturally derived from oat flour and contains 10% Oat Beta Glucans. VenaSilk™ is a trademark of The Herbarie. VenaSilk™ provides unique characteristics to hair and skin care formulations. In skin care, VenaSilk™ imparts a luxurious emolliency and silky feel to lotions and creams and also provides added stability and viscosity.
||Xanthan gum is an anionic polysaccharide that is derived from Xanthomonas campestris by a pure-culture fermentation process. Xanthan gum is a food grade thickener and stabilizer. The Herbarie's XanThix™ is an excellent natural source choice for stabilizing and building viscosity in creams and lotions. XanThix can be used to thicken shampoo and body wash but is not the most efficient choice for surfactant based systems.